地形地貌学.pptVIP

Coastal Processes and Landforms Chapter 13 Waves Most are generated by wind Waves propagate in direction of prevailing wind Size of waves depends on wind speed wind duration fetch Water movement due to waves For waves in deep water: As waves pass, water experiences circular (orbital) motion -- no net flow of water Size of orbits decreases with depth Wave base -- depth below which oscillatory motion ceases Wave base exists at depth equal to one-half wavelength of surface waves Deep water waves Waves in shallow water Where water depth is less than wave base, waves experience drag from seabed Th