历史与文化.docxVIP

历史与文化近代女性倒大袖上衣的衣身造型研究宋 雪a，崔荣荣a,b(江南大学a.纺织服装学院；b.江苏省非物质文化遗产研究基地，江苏 无锡 2141222)摘要：民国时期的女装形制多样且富有特色，而女性倒大袖上衣则是20世纪20年代女装的标志性符号。倒大袖上衣以其喇叭形衣袖和窄小的衣身构成了其独特的服装造型，以倒大袖上衣的衣身造型为研究切入点，结合文献资料与江南大学民间服饰传习馆中的倒大袖上衣实物，通过实物测量数据将衣身造型分类整理，分析其衣身由直到曲、由宽至窄的造型特点及变化规律，同时绘制其结构图来研究倒大袖上衣衣身与衣袖间的造型关系，展现其在衣身造型较传统女上衣变短窄的同时也符合于传统服装和谐有序的审美价值。关键词：倒大袖上衣；衣身；造型；结构；艺术审美中图分类号：TS941.717 文献标志码：B 文章编号：1001-7003(2017)00-0000-00引用页码：011302收稿日期：2016-05-09；修回日期：2016-12-02基金项目：国家社会基金艺术学重点项目(15AG004)作者简介：宋雪(1991—)，女，硕士研究生，研究方向为传统服饰文化。通信作者：崔荣荣，教授，784517598@。Research on the body shape of the modern women’s coat with inverted big sleevesSONG Xuea, CUI Rongronga,b(a.College of Textiles and Clothing; b.Jiangsu Research Center for Intangible Cultural Heritage, Jiangnan University, Wuxi 214122, China)Abstract: The women’s clothing shapes were diverse and full of characteristic in the Republic of China, and women’s coat with inverted big sleeves was a symbol in the 1920s, but the horn-shaped sleeves and narrow body consisted of the unique modeling of the coat with inverted big sleeves. This paper takes the modeling of the coat with inverted big sleeves as the entry point, combines literature data and the coats with inverted big sleeves collected in Jiangnan University Folk Garments Biography Museum, and classifies the modeling according to the measurement data. Then, this paper analyzes modeling features from straight, wide to curly, narrow and the change rules, and draws the structure diagram to study modeling relationship between the body and sleeves and reveal the modeling becomes narrower than traditional modeling and conforms to harmonious and orderly aesthetic value of traditional clothes. Keywords: the coat with inverted big sleeves, body, shape, structure, art aesthetics近代是中国社会中的一个重要历史转型期，服饰的发展则是社会变化的反映。20世纪20年代是中国服饰继承与创新的重要时期，服装造型变化急剧且富有革新性，新旧的融合使该时期的服饰呈现出一番新风尚。一直以来，上衣在传统衣着习惯中都占据着重要地位，也是主要造型样式和装饰的表现载体。倒大袖上衣是衣袖袖口围度大于袖窿围度且衣身紧小的上衣样式，同时是20世纪20年代最为盛行的女性服装款式之一。在《时尚百年》中对倒大袖上衣造型和其搭配是这样描写的：“上衣为大襟紧身短袄，衣摆呈圆弧形，后来也有较多是平摆的，摆长不盖