二维有限推移式造波水槽之瞬时波动解析.PDF

行 精 類 行 年年 行 立 良 參理 理 理 年 行政院國家科學委員會專題研究計畫成果報告 二維有限水槽之瞬時造波理論 An Analytical Solution of Transient Wave Motion Generated by a Piston-type Wave-maker in a Finite Flume 計畫編號： NSC95-2221-E-009-357 執行期限：94 年8月 1日至 95 年7月 31日 主持人：張憲國 交通大學土木工程學系 教授 中文摘要 在有限長度水槽中從靜止開始 以週期振盪及步進的推移 下 ，本研究提出此造波方式 的瞬時線性解。 本文之理論解與往昔 Fourier 積分解比較驗證本文之數學適用 性，並以 試驗結果驗證本文之物理適用 性，而本文之解在Ursell數大時與試驗有較大之誤差 。由 本文及試驗發現當波浪達到穩定前會有一個比穩定波高還大之波存在。 關鍵詞 ：瞬時波、線性解、 Ursell數、水槽試驗 Abstract An analytical solution in Cartesian coordinates for transient waves from rest generated by a periodically oscillating piston-type wavemaker in a flume of finite length is proposed in this paper. The mathematical validity of the proposed solution will be verified by comparing with the previous solutions in form of Fourier integral for both cases of periodic and step paddle motions. The physical validity is also verified by comparing with experimental results carried out in NCKU. Larger errors of water elevations between the analytic solution and experimental results occur when Ursell number is large than those when Ursell number is small. Both analytic solution and experimental results show that the amplitude of water elevation first increases with time then reaches a maximum before a steady amplitude for the periodically oscillating wavemaker. Keywords: Transient wave, Linear solution, Ursell number, Hydrodynamic model 一、前言 潮造波水槽是一種通用的設備來研究波浪運動通過固定與浮動的海洋結構物的流