GL1200EngineRemovalForStatorReplacement.docVIP

GL 1200 Engine Removal for Stator Replacement Preliminary: All page numbers refer to pages in the Clymers 84-87 GL1200 manual except where noted reference to Honda manual. You must have a small hydraulic floor jack to support the engine when out. Mark all electrical wires and hoses so that YOU know where they go. A good way to do this is using a permanent marker on masking tape on both ends. Mark so that A goes to A, B goes to B, etc. It is easy to forget after 24 hours which hose goes where. Where ever possible put nut/bolts back in the hole from which them came. A supply of Ziplock freezer bags (so you can write on them) or small butter bowls is nice to organize loose hardware. Label what step it came from and it helps to lay them out in order of disassembly along the garage wall. Some people use the compass reference or a clock face when marking parts, (i.e. hose G goes to SW fitting under carbs) Make notes to yourself so it is an easy step by step procedure. (Just don’t let your friends see the notes afterward, “widget goes on that fork thingy 2:00 by frame rail”. G) Good Luck Supplies needed: Silicone blue gasket sealer Dot 4 brake fluid Silicone spray lube Silicate Phosphate free anti-freeze Distilled water Oil and filter Fuel filter Exhaust pipe to head gasket (x4) Intake pipe o-ring (x4) Molybdenum grease for drive shaft splines Rear cover gasket Clutch cover gasket Stator assembly Recommended optional stuff ZipLock freezer bags. Permanent Marker Air filter Spark plugs Timing Belts Secondary air supply tube o-rings (X-4) Upper and lower radiator hoses Clutch slave cylinder seal. Teflon tape Exhaust header pipe to power chamber gasket. (I only used the left side, but you might want to replace both) Get with a good shop and talk to the mechanic as well as the parts guy on what parts you’ll need. Good time to replace your timing belts since you are already there. And the clutch slave cylinder should have a new seal. Might get by with cleaning the