HOWtoBLEEDBRAKES,BUILDaVACUUMor-JeepDraw.PDFVIP

Page 1 of 13 HOW to BLEED BRAKES, BUILD a VACUUM or PRESSURE BRAKE BLEEDER SELECT THE BEST BRAKE FLUID FOR YOUR APPLICATION By: John GIBBINS [artificer on G503] Friday 13th March 2015 INTRODUCTION: I decided to do this write-up because of folk continually talking of ‘pedal pump bleeding’ needing 2 people. As soon as I hear ‘pedal pump bleeding’ I think the same thing that is ‘are these people going to create themselves an expensive major repair job’ because of following this old time book or TM method where pumping may be suggested’. It is important to understand that TM’s were written in/ for a time when these vehicles were relatively new, plus US Army Mechanics rarely repaired things, just replaced parts. ANY vintage vehicle with hydraulic brakes with DOT brake fluid [with perhaps the exception of DOT 5] will most likely have water rust inside the brake system components. These DOT fluids are HYGROSCOPIC. They all attract absorb water from the atmosphere. DOT 5 is not hygroscopic is the exception. Read more in Fig. 39’ on brake fluids @ the end of this tutorial. Think how far the master cylinder piston travels in the bore of a normal, properly adjusted free from air, brake system? Would 3 or 4 mm or 0.25” be about right? What does this convert to @ the brake pedal? Now imagine the master cylinder piston moving 50mm or 2” or more from one end of travel to the other over portions of the master cylinder bore that contains accumulated rubbish, rust pitting. The master cylinder seals rely on a perfect conical sealing knife edge. Get the drift? This extended travel can does cause damage to the master cylinder primary secondary seals can contribute to both internal external fluid leaks. I don’t care how many times folk say they have been lucky, eventually they will pay the price