Lanasol性染料染色法鉴别羊绒与羊毛纤维.pdfVIP

摘 要 本文在前人对羊绒与羊毛鉴别方法研究的基础上，通过正交试验方法，采用 Lanasol 活性染料染羊绒羊毛混合纤维，使羊绒与羊毛纤维产生最大色差的适宜工艺 为：染料量：2 ％（owf ）；硫酸铵：2 ％（owf ）；阿白格B ：2 ％（owf ）；pH ：5.3； 浴比 1：25 ；保温温度：90℃；保温时间：20min 。 基于羊绒羊毛的微观结构与形态上的差异，对羊绒羊毛混合纤维使用活性染料同 浴染色时羊绒羊毛产生色差的原因进行了分析。采用最小二乘法得到羊绒羊毛混合纤 维中羊绒含量随染色后残液吸光值变化的回归方程。由此方程可根据羊绒羊毛混合纤 维染色残液吸光值近似确定羊绒含量。将混合纤维染色后用光学显微镜观察，更易确 定变异纤维对羊绒或羊毛纤维的归属。 关键词：羊绒鉴别；Lanasol 活性染料；羊毛；变异纤维；光学显微镜 Abstract On the basis of the previous work on identification methods of cashmere and wool fibers,the proper process conditions are determined in terms of orthogonal test method for appearance of maximum colour diffenence between cashmere and wool fibers dyed with Lanasol reactive dye as follows: 2%(owf) of the reactive dye; 2%(owf) of the ammonium sulphate; 2%(owf) of the Albegal B; pH=5.3; 1:25 of the bath ratio;the hooding temperature at 90 ℃ and the heat retaining time for 20min. Based on the difference in microscopic structure and morphology of cashmere and wool fibers,the reasons are approached for the resultant color difference between cashmere and wool in the mixed fibers dyed by the reactive dye in the same bath.The approximate variation of the cashmere contents with the absorbance of the residual liquor from the dyed mixed fibers of cashmere and wool is obtained from the method of the least squares.Using this fitting equation, the contents of cashmere in the mixed fibers can be determined from the absorbance of the residual liquor.The attribution for variance fibers to cashmere or wool in mixed fibers is easily given by observations using optic microscope after the mixed fibers are dyed with the reactive dye. Key Words： Ｃashmere identification；Lanasol reactive dye ；Wool；Variation fiber； Optic microscope 目