服裝衣袖造型设计的影响因素.docVIP

服装结构专题（论文） PAGE 2 服装衣袖造型设计的影响因素 黄石理工学院08服本2班 韩立栋 目 录 1、衣袖的分类与基型构成·············································· 1-1衣袖的分类··················································· 1-2衣袖基型构成················································· 2、衣袖的结构分析····················································· 2-1袖山························································· 2-2袖围、袖山和袖窿的关系········································ 2-3袖山吃（曲）势················································· 2-4基型袖的变化················································· 2-5袖山弧线形态、袖折线位置及袖口定位关系························ 2-6袖山斜线长度与袖山切线的确定································· 3、配袖的方法························································· 3-1原型配袖法··················································· 3-2基型配袖法··················································· 4、衣袖造型设计的要点················································· 4-1服装品种特点················································· 4-2穿着地域、环境与场合·········································· 结束语······························································ 参考文献····························································· 1、衣袖的分类与基型构成 1-1衣袖的分类 衣袖的款式繁多，根据不同的观察角度，可分为： 以穿着服装的内外层次关系分类，可分为内衣袖、上（外）衣袖和大衣袖等多种。 以修片构成数量分类，可分为一片袖、两片袖、和多片袖。 以袖子的长度分类，可分为冒肩袖、短袖、肘上袖（中袖）、肘下袖（长中袖）和长袖等如图1。 以袖片得结构形式分类，可分为圆装袖、套装袖、连袖和花式袖等。如图2。 1-2衣袖基型构成 1.衣袖主要辅助线 eq \o\ac(○,1)袖中线 eq \o\ac(○,2)上平线 eq \o\ac(○,3)袖山身线 eq \o\ac(○,4)袖长线 eq \o\ac(○,5)前肘线 eq \o\ac(○,6)前袖山斜线 eq \o\ac(○,7)后袖山斜线 eq \o\ac(○,8)前袖线 eq \o\ac(○,9)前袖折线 eq \o\ac(○,10)后袖线 eq \o\ac(○,11)后袖折线 如图3 2.衣袖主要结构点与轮廓线 eq \o\ac(○,1)袖山高点 eq \o\ac(○,2)前袖谷点 eq \o\ac(○,3)前袖肘点 eq \o\ac(○,4)袖中点 eq \o\ac(○,5)前袖点 eq \o\ac(○,6)前袖里点 eq \o\ac(○,7)后袖谷点 eq \o\ac(○,8)后袖肘点 eq \o\ac(○,9)袖大点 eq \o\ac(○,10)后袖里点 eq \o\ac(○,11)袖山弧线 eq \o\ac(○,12)前袖底弧线 eq \o\ac(○,13)后袖底弧线 eq \o\ac(○,14)袖中线 eq \o\ac(○,15)前袖缝线 eq \o\ac(○,16)前袖折线 eq \o\ac(○,17)后袖缝线 eq \o\ac(○,18)后袖折线 eq \o\ac(○,19)袖口弧线 eq \o\ac(○,20)袖肘省 如图4 2、衣袖的结构分析 2-1袖山 袖山高度直接影响衣袖的合体和宽松程度，袖山高是由袖窿深、装袖角度、装袖位置、垫肩厚度、装袖缝型、衣料厚薄等因