皮肤头发的近红外分析..doc

CONTRIBUTED REVIEW 4. Infrared and Raman Studies of Skin and Hair: A review of cosmetic spectroscopyKathleen MartinUnilever HPC USA3100 Golf RoadRolling Meadows, IL 60008USATel: (847) 734-3714Fax: (847) 734-3686email: kathleen.martin@ Introduction Each year the cosmetic industry reaps billions of dollars from sales of products designed to enhance skin and hair. Products to cleanse, moisturize or condition skin and hair abound. In order to compete for the consumer’s dollar, the industry has expended much effort on improving our understanding of the composition and structure of skin and hair and on the nature of the interactions between these substrates and the products themselves. Vibrational spectroscopy, both in vitro and in vivo, has been an important tool in these studies. Presented here is an overview of infrared, Raman and near-infrared spectroscopic studies of skin and hair in the cosmetic industry. 1. Composition and Structure of Skin and HairSkin and hair both function as protective barriers between the body and the environment. The outermost layer of skin, the stratum corneum (SC), is of particular interest to cosmetic scientists as this is the layer affected by cosmetic products. In addition to defending the body against chemical and bacterial attack, the SC regulates evaporative water loss through the skin. Scalp hair plays a similar role by acting as a cushion for the head, protecting the scalp from sunlight, and helping to maintain body heat. Both skin and hair are composed primarily of keratin, a tough, insoluble protein also found in nails, hooves, horns and feathers, plus smaller amounts of lipids and water. The similarities and differences are illustrated in Figures 1 and 2 which compare the mid- and near-infrared spectra of skin and hair. In the mid-infrared, strong amide I and II bands from keratin protein occur around 1660 and 1550 cm-1 for both skin and hair. Differences are seen in the intensities of the C-H stretching region