英国文化-维多利亚服装课件.ppt

Art of UK  Instructor ：Yin Xing Students：Li Xiaoxiao ,Ma Shuang, Hu Xuejiao, Li Qinglian, Luo Zihan, Lin Yi, Tang Shu. Special bonnets （软帽） Bonnets ,replacing the great hats, changed the whole character of day dresses. In 1836 Gigot sleeves collapsed abruptly . Costume began to develop the sentimental early Victorian look we associate with Queen Victorias early rule. All the boned bodice（胸衣）seam lines and trims were directional to emphasize the small waists By 1845 the boned bodice （胸衣）was even more elongated into a V shape. This meant that an early Victorian womans arm movements were restricted. Flounces（荷叶边） were added in the early 1840s to make the skirts appear wider. Cartridge pleats (筒打褶）were used at first to draw the skirt fabric in 1841 Later by 1850 the word crinoline began to mean the whole of the beehive shaped skirt（蜂巢状裙子）. It was then only another step to call the later artificial or cage hooped support frame petticoats after 1856, crinolines. Factors Affecting the Fashion Silhouette after 1860 sewing machine（缝纫机） had been invented couture design（服装设计） played a more important role in clothes world synthetic dyes(合成染料） made it possible to have intense colors（强烈色彩） Crinoline（裙撑） domed skirt silhouette towards the garment back. Clothing designer——Charles Worth He was a great designer , and he designed an overskirt ,which caught on in England after 1868 . The new Princess gown The Princess gown was cut in one piece and consisted of a number of joined panels fitted and gored from shoulder to hem Later Princess styles were slimmer and much more form fitting. Sleeves in day dresses were often of a banana shape. Another top skirt __ apron Rounder waistlines were fashionable and even began to rise very slightly Ball gowns with a train From 1870, ball gowns always had a train. Soon by 1873 the train was seen in day dress. soft polonaise bustle styles By 1875 these styles became so extreme the soft fullness began to drop do