（陶爱峰）海岸动力学课件9.pdfVIP

2. a wave with the wave height of 0.8m, the period of 5s travels in water of 5m, please plot the wave elevation  a cos kx t in one period and the corresponding velocity vectors at least 12 points selected in the following table. u kx-σt 0 π/4 π/2 3π/4 π 5π/4 3π/2 7π/4 2π z(m) 0.4 0.691 0.691 0 0.647 0.458 0 0 0.458