海岸动力学课件（一） 1.pptVIP

“Bilingual Course” ZHENG Jinhai March 2008 Coastal Hydrodynamics 海 岸 动 力 学 HOHAI UNIVERSITY Chapter 2 WAVE THEORY Stating description of wave motion Stating basic equations of wave motion Stating the small amplitude wave theory Stating the finite amplitude wave theory Stating wave theory limits of applicability 1/21 Chapter 2 Water is treated as a uniform Assumptions continuity equation The fluid viscosity is normally velocity potential The surface tension and gravity only The bottom is impermeable. zero velocity ignored. Coriolis force are ignored. and incompressible fluid. Waves travel in the x-z plane. 2/21 Chapter 2 G.D.E. B.B.C. on z= -h L.B.C. D.F.S.B.C. K.F.S.B.C. on z=η on z=η Boundary Value Problem of Wave Motion 3/21 1. Linearization of basic equations Chapter 2 §2.3 Small Amplitude Wave Theory 2. Solution of the linearized equations 3. Dynamic kinetic characteristics of small amplitude waves 4. Standing waves 4/21 Chapter 2 1. Linearization In 1845, Airy developed a theory for irrotational waves traveling over a horizontal bottom in any depth of water. In the derivation of this theory the equation is linearized, and for this reason the theory is often referred to as the linear wave theory. In order to develop the linearization, the waves should be infinitesimally small, in this manner, this theory is also called small amplitude wave theory. 5/21 Chapter 2 Sir George Biddell Airy(1801-1892) was an English astronomer who worked in a variety of areas of science. His major work with respect to this course is his development of small amplitude water wave theory. His research encompassed magnetism, tides, geography, gravitation, partial differential equations, and sound. In 1826 he was appointed the Chair of Mathematics at Cambridge. He became the Astronomer Royal in 1835. 6/21 Chapter 2 What is lineariz