针织学(双语)课件Chapter19.ppt

Introduce They are mainly based on a two-course repeat cycle with a change of direction lap at each course. The two bars make different lapping movements. Each guide bar contributes a thread to every overlap and the two underlaps can be clearly as they lap to a different angle, extent or direction. 19.1 rules governing two guide bar structures 双梳组织形成原则 As the guides swing through the needles to start their next overlap, the back guide bar is first to lay its underlap on the technical back and the front bar is the last. The front bar thread is the first to strike the needle on the return swing after the overlap and as its bar swings furthest to the front of the machine, it tends to occupy a lower position on the needle. A low setting of a guide , a longer run-in, an open instead of a closed lap, or a short underlap movement, will all tend to cause a warp thread to occupy a low position on the needle. 19.1 rules governing two guide bar structures 双梳组织形成原则 19.2 two bar tricot 双经平组织 Two bar tricot (half jersey in the USA) is the simplest two-bar structure . The two laps balance each other exactly as they cross diagonally in-between each wale, producing upright overlaps. poor cover/覆盖性差 19.3 locknit 经平绒组织 The longer underlaps of the front bar on the back of the fabric improve extensibility, cover, opacity, and give a smooth, soft handle and good drapability. It greater cohesion reduces snagging and splitting. The elasticity of locknit makes it particularly suitable for lingerie and intimate apparel. Shrinkage is generally between 21 and 21 per cent, but it can be less. Its tendency to curl towards the face at the top and bottom, and towards the back at the sides. 19.4 reverse locknit 经绒平组织 Reverse locknit has a reduces extensibility and no curling, and because of the short front guide bar underlaps, it has a lower shrinkage in finished width. It is used to a lesser extent than locknit. 19.5 sharkskin 经斜平组织 Sharkskin is produced by increasing the back guide ba