三菇六耳-CUHK.PDFVIP

S h e u n g w a n 文、圖 李捷衡，香港中文大學人類學系研究助理 Text Photography Lee Chit Hang, Research Assistant, Department of Anthropology, The Chinese University of Hong Kong 。 素食漸漸成為一種健康生活的潮流 隨之而來的是愈來愈多人開 ， 。 始發掘和研究素食的食材 當中一個很重要的食材類別就是菌類 菌類食材種類繁多，最具盛名的便是廣府素菜「鼎湖上素」。其特別之處是採用 「三菇六耳」，再配上竹笙等多種菌類共同烹調，口味清淡且富有層次感。相傳 肇慶鼎湖山慶雲寺的慶雲大師來到廣州六榕寺，在當時享譽廣州的西園酒家品嚐 羅漢齋後，發覺其雖用料眾多且名貴，但味道一般，未能發揮食材的鮮味，遂向 西園的廚師提議改變烹製方法。此羅漢齋後來被西園採納並定名為「鼎湖上素」， 成為西園名菜。當中的三菇分別是蘑菇、草菇和香菇，六耳分別是木耳、雪耳、 榆耳、黃耳、石耳和桂花耳。 In recent ye ars, vege tarianism is trending more and more innovati ve non-meat recipes. Among these fungi has become a significant ingredient. The famous Cantonese dish - “Best Mixed Vegetables in Dinghu Style” is a dainty collection of edible fungi of different textures and flavours. Legend has it that this vegetarian dish was an enhancement of “Buddha’s Delight” (a popular vegetarian dish) in the notable Xiyuan Restaurant of Guangzhou by a veteran monk from Xingyun Temple of Dinghu Mountain. The three mushrooms used in the dish were mushroom, straw mushroom and shiitake, while the six fungi were cloud ear, snow ear, elm ear, yellow ear, rock ear and sweet osmanthus ear. 084 野外動向 HONG KONG DISCOVERY Vol.70 SS hh ee uu nn gg ww aa nn 據說「鼎湖上素」所用的蘑菇不是普通的白蘑菇，而是「張家口蘑菇」，簡稱 「