海岸动力学英文CoastalHydrodynamics23.pptVIP

Coastal Hydrodynamics 1. Linearization of basic equations Chapter 2 §2.3 Small Amplitude Wave Theory 2. Solution of the linearized equations 3. Dynamic kinetic characteristics of small amplitude waves 4. Standing waves 2/31 Chapter 2 G.D.E. B.B.C. on z= -h L.B.C. D.F.S.B.C. K.F.S.B.C. on z=η on z=η Summary of the two-dimensional periodic water wave boundary value problem 3/31 Chapter 2 Suppose that the wave is a small amplitude wave, namely HL or Hh. 1. Linearization Use the Taylor series expansion to relate the boundary conditions at the unknown elevation to the still water level. Take the pressure on the free surface to be zero. Linear in the sense that variables are only raised to the first power. 4/31 Chapter 2 G.D.E. Linearized equations B.B.C. L.B.C. D.F.S.B.C. K.F.S.B.C. 5/31 Chapter 2 2. Solution Velocity Potential L B C G D E B B C D F S B C 6/31 Chapter 2 Substituting the velocity potential and the surface elevation into the K.F.S.B.C yields Dispersion relationship 7/31 Chapter 2 Asymptotic forms of hyperbolic functions: Dispersion relationship in shallow deep water function large kh small kh coshkh ekh/2 1 sinhkh ekh/2 kh tanhkh 1 kh 8/31 Chapter 2 Regions for valid approximation: If the largest error incurred by using the asymptotes rather than the actual value of the function is restricted within 5%, then limits for three regions are denoted as: the shallow water intermediate depth the deep water 9/31 Chapter 2 Dispersion relationship for deep water waves: A deep water wave is a wave whose wavelength is very small compared with the water depth. The dispersion relationship is: or or 10/31 Chapter 2 Dispersion relationship for shallow water waves: A shallow water wave is a wave whose wavelength is very large compared with the water depth. The dispersion relationship is: or 11/31 Chapter 2 3. Characteristics Water particle velocity components