Coastal Hydrodynamics_复习知识 海岸动力学教材.pptVIP

6. Wave Breaking The limiting steepness （极限波陡） is A widely accepted breaker criterion is There are three types of breakers : spilling（崩破波）, plunging（卷破波）, surging （激破波）. Chapter 4 NEARSHORE CURRENTS Stating types of currents Stating concept of radiation stress Stating phenomena of wave set-up and wave set-down Stating characteristics of longshore currents 58/130 Ocean currents §4.1 Outline of Currents 2. Tidal currents 3. Nearshore currents 59/130 The nearshore current consists of the mass transport induced by wave action, the longshore c