地形貌学.pptVIP

Coastal Processes and Landforms Chapter 13 Waves Most are generated by wind Waves propagate in direction of prevailing wind Size of waves depends on wind speed wind duration fetch Water movement due to waves For waves in deep water: As waves pass, water experiences circular (orbital) motion -- no net flow of water Size of orbits decreases with depth Wave base -- depth below which oscillatory motion ceases Wave base exists at depth equal to one-half wavelength of surface waves Deep water waves Waves in shallow water Where water depth is less than wave base, waves experience drag from seabed This friction causes waves to slow and steepen (H/L increases) water motion beneath waves becomes elliptical Waves in shallow water Waves in shallow water Waves eventually break when depth gets very shallow. Zone of breaking waves is called the surf zone. Swash zone is where water rushes up and washes back down beach face. Tsunamis Tsunamis - generated by volcanic eruptions, earthquakes or landslides. Generate large, long period waves that travel quickly to shore, steepening as they enter shallow water. Seiche -- common on lakes Seiche results from wind set up or differences in barometric pressure that cause elevation of water surface in one area. Results in periodic fluctuations in water levels as wates “sloshes” back and forth. Entrainment threshold for wave transport Tides Generated by gravitational pull of moon and sun on sea surface In most places, tide rises falls twice daily (semi-diurnal tides) Tides Higher “spring tides” occur when moon and sun are aligned (new and full moon); lower “neap tides” occur when moon and sun are at 90o Effects of tides Influences the landward extent of wave action Creates tidal currents, especially in estuaries, bays, lagoons, and inlets. Currents (other than tidal currents) Longshore currents -- shore-parallel flow; may be part of circulation cell that includes longshore and rip currents, or may be primarily wind-driven. Rip currents -- na