研究与技术7.docxVIP

PAGE \* MERGEFORMAT1 研究与技术 基于男士西服用机织物性能的自动裁剪工艺参数 王雅芝1a，傅菊芬1b，孙 雷2 (1.苏州大学 a.纺织与服装学院；b.应用技术学院，江苏 苏州 215123；2.苏州吉森智能科技有限公司，江苏 苏州 215000) 摘要：针对目前国内服装企业自动裁剪工艺参数主观性、模糊性设定的问题，研究自动裁剪工艺参数的设定方法。以20种企业常用的男士西服面辅料为研究对象，基于织物基本性能将其分成5类，并采用Bayes判别分析法建立了与织物基本性能相关的5类织物的判别模型；选取振动速度、裁剪速度、真空吸力进行正交试验，得到5类织物自动裁剪工艺参数的最佳组合。未来，利用所建立的判别模型可预测织物的类别，并选择相应类别的自动裁剪工艺参数，实现对初次加工织物的自动裁剪工艺参数的快速设定，可有效提高服装企业自动裁剪工艺质量和效率。 关键词：机织物性能；织物聚类；判别模型；自动裁剪工艺参数；正交试验 中图分类号：TS941.631 文献标志码：A 文章编号： 收稿日期：2016-12-26；修回日期：2017-00-00 作者简介：王雅芝(1992—)，女，硕士研究生，研究方向为服装生产与工艺。通信作者：傅菊芬，教授，454653588@。 Research on automatic cutting parameters based on properties of woven fabrics for men’s suit WANG Yazhi1a, FU Jufen1b, SUN Lei2 (1a. College of Textile and Clothing Engineering; 1b. Applied Technical School, Soochow University, Suzhou 215123, China; 2.Suzhou Ginsontech Co.,Ltd., Suzhou 215000, China) Abstract: The automatic cutting parameters are set subjectively and ambiguously in domestic apparel enterprises. For this problem, the method to set the automatic cutting parameters was studied. 20 woven fabrics that are frequently used for men’s suit were chosen as the object of study, and then these fabrics were classified into 5 categories. Besides, Bayes discriminant analysis was applied to establish the discriminant model based on the fabric properties. The velocity of vibration, velocity of cutting and vacuum power were chosen as cutting parameters for the orthogonal cutting experiment to get optimum automatic cutting parameters of 5 categories of fabrics finally. In the future, the category of a fabric can be predicted by the discriminant model. The corresponding automatic cutting parameters may be chosen to achieve fast setting of automatic cutting parameters. This can effectively improve the quality and efficiency of automatic cutting process. Key words: properties of woven fabric; fabric classification; discrimination model; automatic cutting parameters; orthogonal experiment 目前服装企业自动裁床的裁剪工艺参数都是操作工人依据裁剪经验设定，并根据裁剪质量反复