海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydodynamics_4.2.pptVIP

Chapter 4 The inclusion of horizontal mixing effectively couples together the adjacent elemental water columns, resulting in a diffusion in a direction perpendicular to shore. The lateral diffusion of momentum also enables the momentum flux inside the surf zone to drive longshore currents outside the surf zone. 30/33 Chapter 4 31/33 3. Numerical modeling Chapter 4 32/33 THANK YOU “Coastal Hydrodynamics” —— chapter 4 Coastal Hydrodynamics Chapter 4 NEARSHORE CURRENTS Stating types of currents Stating concept of radiation stress Stating phenomena of wave set-up and wave set-down Stating characteristics of longshore currents 1/33 Definition Chapter 4 §4.2 Radiation Stress 2. Expressions 3. Applications 2/33 Chapter 4 There is a stress field in water waves, which is similar to the Reynolds stress in turbulence. This force is usually called momentum flux, since it is resulted from the exchange of momentum among the water particles. 1. Definition 3/33 Chapter 4 Radiation stress is defined as the excess momentum flux induced by the existence of wave motion. It equals the difference between the total momentum fluxes and the hydrostatic pressure in the absence of waves. 4/33 Chapter 4 The radiation stress across the plane x=constant in the direction of wave advance is The radiation stress of y-momentum across the plane y=constant The transverse radiation stress in the direction of waves is 5/33 Chapter 4 If the x-axis is placed in the direction of wave advance and the y-axis parallel to the wave crests, then there are two nonzero components to the radiation stress: the x- and y- fluxes of x-momentum and y-momentum. 2. Expressions 6/33 Chapter 4 In the more general case, when a linear wave is propagating at some angle α to the x-axis, the radiation stress can be expressed as 7/33 Chapter 4 Radiation stress has been proved to be a very powerful tool in the study of a variety of oceanographic phenomena. In the context of li