海岸动力学英PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.1.pptVIP

Chapter 3 In deep water the wave group velocity, the rate at which the wave energy and the wave group as a whole travels, is given by 4. Wave propagation in the ocean The velocity of propagation depends on the wave period, the longer-period waves traveling faster than the shorter- period waves. 32/39 Chapter 3 It is apparent that, starting together in the generation area, the longer-period waves will outrun and leave behind the shorter-period waves. Dispersion therefore produces a narrowing of energy spectrum with a strong energy peak corresponding to the wave period of the swell, and the greater the distance of the travel from the area of generation the narrower the spectrum becomes. 33/39 Chapter 3 Once waves leave the area of generation and are no longer under the influence of the wind, they begin to sort themselves out by a process known as wave dispersion and thereby become more regular. The sorting or wave dispersion by the wave period is the main factor in producing the more uniform swell waves from the initially complex sea in the area of generation. 34/39 Chapter 3 Example: a separate wave group moves from the generation area to the coastline. 35/39 R D Chapter 3 If R is the distance from the leading edge of the storm fetch to point A on the coast, then time tob of first observation of arrival of the waves is For a line source of waves, the final arrival time of waves is 36/39 Chapter 3 In summary, as waves leave the generation area they spread out by wave dispersion, the longest period waves traveling the fastest. Wave dispersion narrows the wave spectrum and changes the complex sea to regular swell waves. Once waves have reached a regular swell condition they may travel for thousands of kilometers across entire ocean basins with relatively little additional energy loss. 37/39 Wave conservation Chapter 3 §3.2 Wave transformations in shallow water 2. Wave shoaling 3. Wave refraction 4. Wave reflection 5.