海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydodynamics_3.2.pptVIP

Chapter 3 The reflection coefficient based on the small amplitude wave theory can be determined by measuring the amplitudes at the antinode and node of the composite wave train. However, the determination of the reflection coefficient should be conducted experimentally for a concrete engineering. 31/38 Chapter 3 When incoming waves are interrupted by a barrier such as a breakwater or an island, the waves curve around the barrier and penetrate into the sheltered area, meanwhile the wave energy is transferred laterally along a wave crest. This phenomenon is called wave diffraction （波浪绕射）. 5. Wave diffraction 32/38 Chapter 3 Wave diffraction occurs on the sheltered side of the breakwater such that a wave disturbance is transmitted into the “geometric shadow zone”. Wave diffraction 33/38 Chapter 3 The diffraction coefficient （绕射系数） is defined as the ratio between the diffracted and incident wave heights. It is clear that a quantitative understanding of the diffraction coefficient is relevant to the planning and evaluation of harbor layouts. 34/38 Chapter 3 Numerical Modeling of Wave Diffraction 35/38 Chapter 3 36/38 Chapter 3 Wave Action Balance Equation with Diffraction effect A phase averaging prediction model for multi-directional random waves considering ambient currents 37/38 THANK YOU “Coastal Hydrodynamics” —— chapter 3 Coastal Hydrodynamics Chapter 3 WAVE TRANSFORMATIONS Stating ocean wave characteristics Stating transformations of waves entering shallow water 2/38 Statistical characteristics of ocean waves Chapter 3 §3.1 Ocean Wave Characteristics 2. Wave height distribution and wave period distribution 3. Ocean wave energy spectra 4. Deep-water wave propagation 5/39 Chapter 3 What are statistically representative waves? 11/39 Chapter 3 3/38 Rayleigh distribution curve Chapter 3 3/38 JONSWAP spectrum Chapter 3 Example: a separate wave group moves from the generation area to the coastline. 6/38