海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynmics_6.1.pptVIP

Chapter 6 According to their laboratory investigations, Sunamura and Horikawa classified beach profiles from a different point of view. They proposed the following semi-empirical criterion on whether a beach will erode or accrete. This criterion is a function of three parameters, i.e., wave steepness, sediment grain size and bottom slope. 30/32 Chapter 6 The value for C is 4~8 to demarcate erosion and accretion of laboratory beaches. When C8, beach erodes and the bar type profile occurs. While C4, beach accretes and the step type profile forms. When 4C8, the equilibrium profile is found. It was also found that C=18 for natural beaches. 31/32 THANK YOU “Coastal Hydrodynamics” —— chapter 6 Coastal Hydrodynamics HOHAI UNIVERSITY Chapter 6 COASTAL PROCESSES Stating beach nomenclature Stating beach profile Stating coastal change 1/32 Chapter 6 In the treatment of coastal sediment transport, it is quite common to consider separately sediment movement perpendicular to the shoreline and that parallel to it. The sediment movement perpendicular to the shoreline is considered to be the more significant one for the short-term variation of coastal processes, while that parallel to the shoreline is the more significant one for the long-term variation of the coast. 2/32 Chapter 6 §6.1 General Beach Nomenclature 3/32 Inshore Foreshore Backshore Chapter 6 The beach is an accumulation of unconsolidated sediment (sand, shingle, cobbles, and so forth) extending shoreward from the mean low-tide line to some physiographic change such as a sea cliff or dune field, or to the point where permanent vegetation is established. We require a more inclusive term, one that will encompass this underwater portion of the environment, since that is where the more important processes occur which are responsible for the beach formation. 4/32 Chapter 6 The term littoral is used to denote this entire environment, which extends across the beach