以复合土壤性能强化天然纤维.doc

PAGE 月桃纖維之染色技術研究 Application of Dyeing Technology on Alpinia zerumbet Fiber 研究生：邱慧音 Chiu, Huei-Yin 指導教授：黃俊傑 Huang, Jun-Jie 李鴻麟 Lee, Hong-Lin 【摘要】 月桃葉鞘纖維編織的傳統技藝在台灣已有相當久遠的文化刻痕，現今已日趨式微而逐漸被社會所淡忘，因此染色應用於文化創意產品開發不失為可行之道，故本研究利用茜草根、川紅花所萃取出的染液及直接性染料Direct Brown 2和Direct Blue 41等染料進行月桃纖維染色，並以不同氫氧化鈉(Sodium Hydroxide，NaOH)前處理濃度、染液濃度及媒染條件等進行染色性質測試，並探討染色纖維之光堅牢度、熱堅牢度，以評估其染著效果。研究結果顯示： 以1% 或1.3% NaOH濃度前處理之月桃葉鞘纖維，經茜草根及川紅花染料抽出物染色後均具有較佳的染著效能；以Direct Brown 2及 Direct Blue 41直接性染料染色之月桃纖維，其K/S值均會隨著NaOH前處理濃度增加而增加。 月桃葉鞘纖維染色後，其表面層與內面層之色彩差異顯著；由不同染料濃度試驗結果顯示，染料濃度越高其染料對於纖維染著效果亦隨之提升，且纖維兩面顏色之差異性亦隨之降低。 使用硫酸鋁作為媒染劑，隨著藥劑濃度增高其月桃纖維之染著力可顯著提升，顏色差異明顯且表面顏色加深。以2% 硫酸鋁溶液進行媒染時，其K/S值及表面顏色變化幅度已較為趨緩。 染色纖維經照光後，其染色纖維之表面顏色明度值增加，b*值明顯提升，其染著的顏色會因照光處理時間增加而逐漸褪色，色差值增加，彩度差值提升。 熱堅牢度試驗結果顯示，經熱處理後染色纖維之表面顏色之彩度差值提升，明度值及b*值亦會增加，其染色纖維產生回色情形明顯。 關鍵字：月桃纖維、染色、染料吸附、色彩堅牢度。 【Abstract】 The traditional technique of knitting with Alpinia zerumbet fiber have been used for a long time. In order to promote the application of A. zerumbet fibers and conventional dyeing techniques in cultural art crafts in Taiwan, this research used synthetic dyes (Direct Brown 2 and Direct Blue 41 dyes) and the extractions from plants such as Rubia tinctorum and Carthamus tinctorius on A. zerumbet fibers. In this reaserch , we tested different concentration of NaOH solutions and dyes, and try to find out the more suitable treatment of plant and synthetic dyes on the fibers. Moreover, we treated dyed fibers with various mordant in a mordant procedure to probe the relationship between mordants and dyeing procedures on the dyeing properties, and observed the visible color resulting from the exposure to different light and heat conditions. The experimental results were summarized as follows: According to the results of this experiment, the A. zerumbet fiber dyed with R. tinctorum dye at 1.3% ( wt%) NaOH solution of pre-treatment had the highest K/S number, dyed with C. tinctorius dye was 1% ( wt%). Moreover, the K/S number of fiber dyed with Direct Brown 2