MIKE波浪泥沙模拟教程.ppt

Current: Profiles extend over entire depth;;;;;Turbulence and sediment exchange factor: Non-breaking waves: high near the bed Breaking waves: High near the bed and away from the bed: ’Bottle neck’ ;Sediment concentration profiles Waves only: Very close to the bed ~ cm Waves and current: higher into the water column With breaking waves: over entire water column ;Drift: Two way of describing drift, same phenomenon 1. Eulerian, look at a point;Drift: Two way of describing drift, same phenomenon 1. Eulerian, look at a point;Drift: Two way of describing drift, same phenomenon 1. Lagrangian, look at a water particle, elliptical path;Inside a wave;Eulerian or Lagrangian drift, same discharge, ;Does drift affect suspended sediment-?? Yes, the concentration profile is stretched under the crest, and the sediment travels with/against the wave Requires higher order representation of velocity field;;But the wave boundary layer is causing a deficit discharge, D, which varies along the wave and induces an additional vertical velocity, W0 ;But the wave boundary layer is causing a deficit discharge, D, which varies along the wave and induces an additional vertical velocity, W0 ;Several other mechanisms. E.g. nonlinearity: high forward velocity for a short duration lower backward velocity for a longer time Result: mean shear stress and mean flow – but only for turbulent boundary layers!;Shear stress and flow in the surf zone For non breaking waves: energy dissipation in the wave boundary layer, shear stresses only induced near the bed In the surf zone energy is dissipated in particular near the surface, shear stresses are induced over the entire water column;Spilling breaker/broken wave: The surface rolle is a body of water that move forward with the wave front, velocity c;Force balance for the surfer, the weight W is balanced by the normal force N (pressure) and the tangential force S (shear stress). ;The surfer thus exerts the forces N and S on the water in the wave below.