美发导师：染发专家课程.ppt

* Porous White Hair All porous hair, whether it is white or naturally coloured, has the ability to absorb pigment more readily than normal hair, therefore the colour result will appear darker. Recognition Porous hair will be dull and rough to touch and may also be dry due to moisture loss. Perform a porosity test. Solutions If the target shade is 4-99 then use 5-99, this will ensure fewer pigments enter the hair. If white hair percentage is less than 20% use the target shade. If white hair percentage is 20-50%, use 2 parts target shade to 1 part lighter shade (2:1 mixing ratio), for example 40g of 5-99 + 20g of 5-0. If 50% white hair or more, use 1 part target shade to 1 part lighter shade (1:1 mixing ratio), for example 30g of 5-99 + 30g of 5-0. * Resistive White Hair Resistive hair may also be de-hydrated as moisture is also prevented from penetrating the cuticle. Recognition Resistive hair will be smooth and glassy, perform a porosity test to check for this. Solutions If a natural hair shade is required, use the Natural Extra range (-00), these contain double the amount of pigment creating a deeper, more intense result. Only use on 50% white hair or above with 9% Oxigenta, otherwise the remaining natural colour will lift. If the hair is 100% white, mix with a 4 series shade in order to replace natural pigment, for example mix 2 parts 8-00 with 1 part 8-4 (2:1). Use an IGORA colouring cream one depth darker than the desired shade, for example if the target shade is 9-4, then use 8-4 with 6% Oxigenta lotion. Ensure all the colouring mixture is used and evenly distributed across the hair. Use 9% Oxigenta lotion with Absolute Reds or Absolute Browns or Natural Extra shades (-00). Extend processing time. * Pre-Pigmentation Pre-pigmentation is a specialist technique used to restore the hair’s natural underlying pigments, the hair can then be coloured using a standard technique to achieve the target shade. The tones used to pre-pigment hair are usually red, o