海岸动力学精品课件-微幅波控制方程与理论解.pptVIP

Coastal Hydrodynamics 海 岸 动 力 学 Chapter 2 WAVE THEORY 1/25 Description of wave motion Basic equations of wave motion Small amplitude wave theory Finite amplitude wave theory Wave theory limits of applicability 2/25 §2.1 Description of Wave Motion 2. Classification of water waves 3. Methods of describing fluid motion 4. Basic parameters of regular waves 1. Different kinds of waves 3/25 1. Assumptions §2.2 Basic Equations of Wave Motion 2. Governing equation 3. Boundary conditions 4. Discussion Water is treated as a uniform and incompressible fluid. continuity equation T