海岸动力学精品课件-有限振幅波理论与非线性波理论.pptVIP

Chapter 2 An interesting departure of the Stokes wave from the Airy wave is that the particle orbits are not closed. The crest position after one wave cycle progresses in the direction of wave propagation. Second-order solution Chapter 2 The net horizontal displacement within one wave period is Thus there results a so-call “mass transport” (质量输移) with an associated velocity U Chapter 2 Wave energy Second-order solution Chapter 2 Wave pressure Second-order solution Chapter 2 The first solution for periodic waves of finite height was developed by Gerstner in 1802. From the d