海岸动力学精品课件-波浪守恒与浅化变形和波浪折射、.pptVIP

Chapter 3 Using the linear theory and recalling the dispersion relationship, we have It is seen that the wave length at the water depth is determined from the water depth and deep water wave length, the latter easily calculated from the wave period. Chapter 3 Wave properties in shallow water Chapter 3 It is seen that L and c decrease but n increases with decreasing depth. It can be found that there should be a small decrease in the wave height in the intermediate water depths to a value below the deep water wave height. The decrease is then followed by a rapid increase in H as