海岸动力学精品课件-波浪运动的描述与基本方程.pptVIP

TAO Aifeng Oct. 2014 Coastal Hydrodynamics Chapter 1 INTRODUCTION Characteristic features of coasts in China Development of coastal zone resources in China Background information of coastal engineering Methods to study coastal hydrodynamics 1/31 Chapter 2 WAVE THEORY Description of wave motion Basic equations of wave motion Small amplitude wave theory Finite amplitude wave theory Wave theory limits of applicability 2/31 2. Classification of water waves Chapter 2 §2.1 Description of Wave