海岸动力学精品课件-风浪在深水中的传播与海浪预报.pptVIP

Chapter 3 Example: a separate wave group moves from the generation area to the coastline. 35/39 R D Chapter 3 If R is the distance from the leading edge of the storm fetch to point A on the coast, then time tob of first observation of arrival of the waves is For a line source of waves, the final arrival time of waves is 36/39 Chapter 3 In summary, as waves leave the generation area they spread out by wave dispersion, the longest period waves traveling the fastest. Wave dispersion narrows the wave spectrum and changes the complex sea to regular swell waves. Once waves have reache