海岸动力学精品课件-波浪破碎与波浪浅水变形的工程实.pptVIP

Chapter 3 Breaker criterion The ratio of the height of wave breaker to the water depth of wave breaking is regarded as the breaker criterion （破波指标）. A widely accepted breaker criterion is Chapter 3 Breaker angle The breaker angle （破波角） can be calculated with the following formula Chapter 3 Breaker types Three types of breakers are : spilling（崩破波）, plunging（卷破波）, surging （激破波）. Chapter 3 Spilling breakers tend to occur on beaches of very low slope (gentle slope) with waves of high steepness values. In spilling breakers the wave gradually peaks until the crest becomes unstable