2.27 盘中世界: 跳出臼色塑料盒的束缚.docxVIP

2.27 盘中世界: 跳出臼色塑料盒的束缚.docx

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【2.27】

2.27每日一篇|熊猫外刊精读

Worldinadish:Thinkingoutsidethewhite?plastic?box

Acarnivore’s?guide?totofu

【1】SUELLABRAVERMAN,Britain’sformerhome?secretary,?blamed?“Guardian-reading,tofu-eatingwokerati”foraprotestthatclosedabridge.TedCruz,a?conservative?Americansenator,?complained?thatDemocratswantTexas“tobejustlikeCalifornia,rightdowntotofu”.AcrosstheWest,eatingtofuisseenas?leftist,weakand?somehow?unmanly.Thisviewis?silly,and?carnivores?whoholditare?depriving?themselvesofahealthy,deliciousand?adaptable?sourceof?protein.PandaForeignMagazineIntensiveReading:RespectforOriginality,PiracyMustBePunished

【2】Tofu—richin?calcium,?protein?anda?variety?of?minerals—remained?obscure?intheWestuntil?counterculture?lookedeastinthe?1960s;Asianshaveeatenitfor?millennia.InsomeAsianlanguages,thewordsfor“tofu”and“cheese”aresimilar,andtheyhavestrikinglysimilarproductionmethods.(Animalmilkand?soy?milkare?heated,?inoculated?witha?coagulant,?pressed?andshapedinto?solid?form.)Justascheesesdiffer?markedly?intasteand?texture,tofutakesa?variety?offorms,from?delicate?silken?tofu—deliciousasa?dessert?whendressedwith?syrup—tothe?refrigerated?boxed-in-water?versions.

【3】To?detractors,whatalltheseformsshareis?blandness?and?virtue.Tofuis?wobbly?and?tasteless;peopleeatitonlybecausetheyfeeltheyshouldor,havingswornoffmeatfor?ideological?reasons,theymust.Inanewbook,“Tofu:ACulinaryHistory”,RussellThomas,ajournalist,arguesthat?bean?curd?deserves?betterthanitsworthy?reputation.Thefirststepinenjoyingitisgettingpoliticsoutofthekitchenand?appreciating?its?endless?versatility.Boostersdotofunofavoursbycallingita“meatsubstitute”—generally,itisnot.Nobodywillevermistake?pressed?bean?curd?foraseared?steak.

【4】Butfor?carnivores?whowanttoreducetheirmeat?consumption,tofucanproveasurprisinglydeliciousstand

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