Smoke on the Water.docVIP

Smoke on the Water 　　Seldom have I traipsed home at dawn so energized. Skipping through Donggangs thoroughfares as the early light overpowered the golden orbs suspended above the street， my thoughts turned to the cleansing nature of a prolonged conflagration. 　　Nevadas Burning Man festival may be world-renowned， but why light up “The Man” when you can incinerate bad luck itself ?C embodied in demonic effigies chaperoned by gods ?C sealed aboard an elaborately engraved and painstakingly painted wooden barge more than 20 feet long？ Such is the nature of a triennial ritual held here known as Wang Ye， referring to five local deities led by Marshal Wen， a folk hero posthumously elevated to godhood. 　　Academics believe this custom originated in the Song Dynasty as a means to celebrate the gods’ battle against plague-carrying demons. Now， with the specter of plague banished， this still fiercely respected rite is seen more as a prayer for peace and prosperity， though more modern viruses like dengue fever and H1N1 are also thought to be exorcised through the ritual. 　　 Transformation 　　Donggang， a port that prides itself on its bluefin tuna catch， is for most of the year a laid-back town much like any other sleepy fishing enclave dotted up and down Taiwans southwestern coast. But during the week-long festival， which occurs around the ninth lunar month on a date determined by lengthy scrying of wooden divination blocks， Donggang comes alive with firecrackers and color， music and mayhem. 　　The joy of Wang Ye lies in giving yourself up to the experience； to the magic in the incense， incantations and aromas that infuse the lanes； and the soothing red and gold light that beckons softly from flickering household shrines. 　　During the day， the roads are seeded with explosive welcomes primed to herald the boat’s arrival， as well as stalls vending everything from fruit juices to wild boar sausage and deep fried squid. For those seeking liquid refreshment， craft beverages can be