海岸动力学WaveTheory探究.ppt

Ch. 2 Wave Theory 2-1 Introduction 2-1 Introduction 2-1 Introduction 2-1 Introduction Classification of ocean waves according to wave period Classification 2-2 Basic Equation of Wave Motion Assumption Assumption General Idea A velocity potential速度势函数 Continuity Equation连续方程 Laplace’s Equation Boundary Conditions Boundary Conditions Boundary Conditions 2-3 Small Amplitude Wave Theory微幅波理论 重要内容 1 重要内容 2 2-3-1 Solution of the Basic EquationDifficulty: 2-3-1 Solution of the Basic EquationAssumptions（Solution) 2-3-1 Basic Equations 采用分离变量法可以得到解答Velocity Potential Important Equations Solution 1 Solution 1 Solution 1 2-3-2 Water Particle水质点 Velocity Components and Path Example 3 2-3-2 Water Particle水质点 Path 2-3-3 Pressure 压力 Variation Induced by Wave Motion 2-3-4 Group Velocity 波群速度 and Energy Propagation Wave Energy and Energy Flux波能和波能流 Deep Water Waves and Shallow Water Waves 2-3-7 Clapotis 立波，驻波: Full Clapotis 2-3-7 Clapotis: Patial Clapotis 重要内容回顾 1 重要内容回顾 2 Solution 2 Solution 2 Example Problem 4 The more shallow the water, the flatter the ellipse. Neglecting the second-order terms 二阶项 in Eq. (2.2.5), The Pressure equation in the present approximation is The Second term on the right hand side represents the hydrostatic pressure 静水压力. Hence the pressure variation due to wave motion is given by 压力响应系数或压力灵敏度系数 或压力分布系数 在表面y/h=0, Kp=1 在1/2水深处，y/h=0.5， 在底部y/h=-1.0 深水时, Kp 沿水深迅速减小,压力集中在表层 浅水时, Kp 沿水深逐渐减缓,但压力仍集中在上层 极浅水时, Kp 沿水深变化很小,压力接近均匀分布 Considering two simple harmonic waves with common height such that their wave lengths and celerities are almost equal, and superimpose them as follows: Looking at the wave expressed by in Eq. (2.3.33), we see that its length , period and celerity are Looking at the wave expressed by in Eq. (2.3.33), we see that its length , period and celerity are The characteristics of this latter wave are the same as those of the individual waves. Returning to the first wave, w