ppt课件-chapter7coastalzoneandprocesses.pptVIP

Coastal Process Chapter 9: Wave Dynamics Wave length (L)= Distance between crests, Wave height (H) = Vertical distance between the crest and the trough Wave base = depth below which waves have no effect = ? * wave length Breakers form when the sea-bottom is at a depth less than the wave base Surf Zone = Zone along which breaking waves collapse Swash and backwash = up and down movement of water along the shore line Coastal erosion and sand transportation Wave refraction Longshore current and Littoral drift Cliff erosion Groin and Breakwater Beach Commenced 1970 s $62 million over 10 years,