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设计与产品日本絣织及其代表性纹样特征探究廖文华a，王宏付b(江南大学a.纺织服装学院；b.生态纺织教育部重点实验室，江苏 无锡 214122)摘要：以日本传统纺织品中较为特殊的絣织为研究对象，在阐述日本絣织的历史源流、发展过程及织造技术的基础上，从其两类代表性纹样着手，总结出日本絣织的纹样特征。针对其中带有吉祥观念的寓意性图案以一些具体的实例展开分析，通过对絣织作品中出现过的寓意性图案的提取与整合，梳理出这些纹样在当时文化背景下的象征意义，并借这些寓意解读出絣织作品描绘和传递的意境与特殊情感。同时结合一些现有的设计作品发现絣织目前在服饰设计中的应用方式比较局限，希望可以通过在絣织的工艺基础上加入一些其他的染织技术或是利用高科技来解决絣织制作中费时费力的问题，使寓意性图案更多地出现在现代的设计中，从而探索出絣织在时尚潮流中发展的新方向。关键词：日本絣织；纹样特征；色彩特征；几何元素；吉祥寓意；情感表达；应用设计中图分类号：TS941.11；J533.1(313) 文献标志码：B 文章编号：1001-7003(2017)00-0000-00引用页码：011203收稿日期：2016-05-24；修回日期：2016-12-14基金项目：教育部人文社科基金项目(09YJA760013)；江苏省规划办人文社科基金项目(08YSB003)；江苏高校优势学科建设工程资助项目(PAPD)作者简介：廖文华(1992—)，女，硕士研究生，研究方向为服饰文化。通信作者：王宏付，教授，565445723@。Discussion on Kasuri pattern in Japan and features of its representative patternsLIAO Wenhuaa, WANG Hongfub(a.Textile and Garment Institute; b.Key Laboratory of Eco-textiles, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi 214122, China)Abstract: Kasuri weaving, one of the relatively special fabrics among the traditional textile weaves in Japan, is researched. Based on an elaboration of the historical origin, development processes and the weaving technology of Kasuri pattern, this paper starts from its two representative patterns and sums up the pattern characteristics of Kasuri weaving. For the image pattern which implies auspiciousness, it is analyzed with some specific cases. Through the extraction and integration of the image patterns ever seen in the Kasuri works, symbolic meaning of these patterns under the cultural background of that time was summarized and the artistic conception and special emotion that Kasuri works depicted and transmitted were interpreted. Also by combining with some existing design works, we found some relatively limited applications in the current clothing design methods, hoping that we can add some other dyeing technology or use high technology to solve the time-consuming and laborious problem in Kasuri weaving process and make the image type patterns more common in modern design, so as to explo