Routesetting101定线入门.PDF

Routesetting 101 定线⼊⻔ Mention climbing on plastic and you will likely hear a muttering of groans and hisses from some camps and excited rants from others about the latest and greatest blue problem in the gym. Regardless of what camp you belong to, you likely have climbed on some poorly set routes or boulder problems as well as some excitingly thoughtful ones. So what makes a great indoor problem? The answer is simple:Movement. 提到⼈⼯岩壁攀爬，你似乎就听到了低沉的呻吟，⽐赛中的嚎叫，关于岩馆⾥最新最 棒的那条蓝线的讨论。⽆论你在哪个岩馆⾥混，你都会遇到令⼈兴奋发⼈深省的线 路，和质量低下的线路。那么是什么因素决定了线路的好坏呢？答案很简单：动作。 Unlike weight training or other repetitive exercises such as running, climbing has multitudes of moves that need to be learned. Climbing, in some respects, is like a game of chess. The best route-setters in the world know this. Good route setting isn’t about making the holds further apart or putting smaller crimps on the wall to make it more difficult. It is instead about the creation of cryptic sequences that force specific movement. A well-planned route or problem should be physically possible for every person in the gym whether he or she is the ten-year-old phenom or the average six-foot tall beer guzzling college student if given the climbing prowess. Here are some ideas to help you as a route setter when creating the next piece de’ resistance. 和举重训练或其他，⽐如跑步这样的重复性练习不同，攀岩中你需要学习⼤量的动 作。从某个⾓度来说，攀爬就像⼀局国际象棋。世上最好的定线员明⽩这点。好的线 路并不在于把⼿点移得更远或者使⽤更⼩的crimp点来让线路变得难以完成。它在于 创造出神秘的序列，驱使⼈做出特定的动作。⼀个巧妙设计的线路应该让岩馆中的所 有⼈都有可能完成，⽆论他(她)是10岁的优秀运动员还是6英尺⾼的⼤学⽣。下⾯是 ⼀些主意帮助你完成下⼀次线路的设计。 The Smalls and the Talls (⼩个和⾼个) Chances are, you aren’t setting for ABS Nationals, but it is still important to know who is going to be trying your problems. After a day of setting, sit back and watch other gym patrons try the new problems. Pay close attention to junior team members, as they often are the shortest gym patrons. They make great forerunners for problems when reach is a concern on