FallFactorsExplained冲坠系数详解.PDF

Fall Factors Explained 冲坠系数详解 by Rockfax 作者 Rockfax The following article is based on text from the book Trad CLIMBING + published by Rockfax. This article version was written by Adrian Berry and Alan James, and the illustrations are by Ray Eckermann. 下⾯的⽂章基于由Rocktex发⾏的书Trad CLIMBING+。本⽂由Adrian Berry和Alan James改写，Ray Eckermann配图。 When you fall off a route the piece of equipment that contributes the most to absorbing the energy of the fall is the rope. In general, the more rope freely available to stretch during the fall, the safer the fall will be and this can be measured by using a ratio known as the fall factor. 当你从线路上脱落时，对吸收能量贡献最⼤的装备是绳⼦。通常来说，绳⼦可以⾃由 伸缩的⻓度越⻓，这次冲坠就越安全，这可以⽤⼀个⽐率来衡量，就是众所周知的冲 坠系数。 The fall factor is simply the distance fallen, divided by the amount of rope available to absorb that fall. The principle is that, the lower the fall factor, the safer the fall. The distance fallen isnt important on its own and in some situations longer falls are safer than shorter ones, which is contrary to what most people might expect. The important thing is how much force is transmitted to the top piece of protection and this is where the fall factor comes into play - a large fall factor (which can be a very short fall if low on a pitch) transmits a large force, and a small fall factor (which can be a huge winger if high on a pitch) transmits a smaller force. 冲坠系数就是简单地以掉落的距离除以绳⼦在这次冲坠中的有效⻓度。原则是，冲坠 系数越⼩，就越安全。单独讨论掉落距离是没有意义的，在某些情况下⻓冲坠⽐短冲 坠更安全，这点出乎⼤多数⼈的意料。重要的是有多少⼒量会传到最顶上的保护点， 这时就看冲坠系数 - ⼤的冲坠系数(可能是⼀个很短的冲坠，如果你处于分段的起步) 传输了⼀个很⼤的⼒，⼩的冲坠系数(在分段的⾼处也可能会冲很远)传输⼀个很⼩的 ⼒。 The illustrations below show several different situations and the fall factors you might experience. 下⾯的插图展⽰你可能遇到过的⼏种不同情景下的冲坠系数。 Here, a climber has taken a 2m fall If the climber had been twice as high