民国前期杭州丝织品种发展特征研究 - 《丝绸》杂志社.pdf

Vol.49 第49卷 No.06, Jun. 2012 2012年06月 第06期 历史与文化 民国前期杭州丝织品种发展特征研究 龚 建 培 (1. 210013 2. 430070) 南京艺术学院 设计学院，南京 ； 武汉理工大学 艺术与设计学院，武汉 摘要：分两个阶段探讨了民国前期杭州丝绸品种的特征。民国前期的杭州丝织业通过丝织设备的更新、国外产品的借鉴，以及新纤 维材料的运用等，使丝绸产量和品种都达到了前所未有的发展高度。在1912－1918年的兴盛时期，丝织设备的更新换代及经营方式 转换，引发了丝织品种的近代变革；在1919－1937年的低落与鼎盛并存期，新兴纤维材料的运用和丝织、染整技术的进步，带来了 丝织品种风格、织物结构上更大的创新与突破。 关键词：丝织品种；发展特征；民国前期；杭州 TS941.42=6 B 1001-7003(2012)06-0063-06 中图分类号： 文献标志码： 文章编号： Research on characteristics of Hangzhou silk varieties development at the early stage of Republic of China GONG Jian-pei (1.Design College, Nanjing Art Institute, Nanjing 210013, China; 2.School of Art and Design, Wuhan University of Technology, Wuhan 430070, China) Abstract: The discussion on the characteristics of Hangzhou silk varieties at the early stage of Republic of China is presented in the form of two stages. At the early stage of Republic of China, Hangzhou silk industry developed the silk production and silk varieties to an unprecedented level by updating the silk weaving equipment, consulting foreign products and using new fiber materials etc. In the prosperous period from 1912 to 1918, the update of silk weaving equipment and changes of operation ways caused the modern reform of silk varieties. In the period from 1919 to 1937 when the decline and prosperity coexisted, the application of new fiber material and the technology progress of silk weaving and dyeing led to the greater innovation and breakthrough of varieties, styles and structure for silk fabric. Key Words: Silk varieties; Characteristi