薄型丝织物结构和性能与缝纫缩皱的关系.PDF

Vol.48 第48卷 2011年03月 第03期 No.03, Mar. 2011 研究与技术 薄型丝织物结构和性能与缝纫缩皱的关系 1 1,2 1 高雪莲 ，吴巧英 ，武利利 (1.浙江理工大学 服装学院，杭州 310018；2.东华大学 服装学院，上海 200051) 摘要：探讨了薄型丝织物主客观评价与织物物理、力学性能、结构参数之间的相关性。选取37种服装生产中常用的薄型丝织物，以 0°为经向、90°为纬向取试样在相同条件下缝制。通过FAST风格仪测试织物物理、力学性能，测定了织物的客观缝缩率与主观缝 皱感。 关键词：缝纫缩皱；薄型丝织物；织物性能 中图分类号：TS941.15 文献标志码：A 文章编号：1001-7003(2011)03-0022-04 Research on the relationship between structure, performance and seam puckers of thin silk fabrics 1 1,2 1 GAO Xue-lian , WU Qiao-ying , WU Li-li (1.School of Fashion, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou 310018, China; 2. Fashion College, Dong Hua University, Shanghai 200051, China) Abstract: Thirty seven thin silk fabrics were used for seam pucker experiments. Fabric are cut in 0° as warp and 90° as weft and sawed under the same sewing condition. Physical and mechanic properties are tested by FAST instrument, while the seam shrinkage rate and seam pucker level are measured. Correlation of the seam shrinkage, seam pucker level with the physical properties, mechanic properties and structural parameters is analyzed. Key Words: Seam pucker; Thin silk Fabrics; Fabric properties 薄型丝织物因其面料特性而在缝纫生产中易出现 1 实 验 缩缝、起皱变形等现象。为解决这一生产问题，国内 1.1 材 料 外学者对面料性能及缝纫条件与缝纫缩皱的关系进 # # 选用37种(编号1 ～37 )薄型丝织物作为实 行了大量的分