古代经锦织物与多综多蹑织机装造的关系.PDFVIP

Vol.49 第49卷 No.07, Jul. 2012 2012年07月 第07期 历史与文化 古代经锦织物与多综多蹑织机装造的关系 丁 怀 进 (苏州丝绸博物馆，江苏 苏州 215001) 摘要：以战国、两汉时期的三块具有二重平纹型经锦、三重平纹型经锦和五重平纹型经锦经锦提花织物为例，就其组织结构、纹样规 律与多综多蹑织机装造原理、上机工艺之间的关系作分析探讨。以组织结构最为复杂的“舞人动物纹锦”为研究对象，通过对其规格 的分析对比，探讨其在多综多蹑织机上织造的可行性。研究结果表明：战国、两汉时期的经锦提花织物的生产，是由多综多蹑织机来 完成的，采用多综多蹑织织机，织造古代经锦提花织物是完全可能的。 关键词：古代经锦；多综多蹑织机；装造；文物复制 TS145.3 G263 B 1001-7003(2012)07-0065-04 中图分类号： ； 文献标志码： 文章编号： The relationship between the ancient warp brocade and the multi-heddle and multitreadle loom DING Huai-jin (Suzhou Silk Museum, Suzhou 215001, China) Abstract: Taking three brocades in Warring States and Han Period as examples, i.e., a two-fold plain weave brocade, a trebling plain weave brocade and a quintuple plain weave brocade, this paper analyzes and compares the relationship among their organizational structure, pattern arrangement, design principle of multi-heddle and multi-treadle loom and process technology. Targeting dancing person and animal patterned brocade with the most complex organizational structure, this thesis analyzes and compares its specification as well as discusses its feasibility when it is weaved by multi-heddle and multi-treadle loom. Research results show that the production of brocade jacquard in Warring States and Han Period is completed by multi-heddle and multi- treadle loom. Therefore, it is possible to use multi-heddle and multi-treadle loom to weave ancient brocade jacquard. Key Words: Ancient warp brocade; Multi-heald and multi-t