花式纱应用于梭织及缀织设计之创意研发CreativeApplicationsof.PDF

花式紗應用於梭織及綴織設計之創意研發 Creative Applications of Fancy Yarns to Weavingand Tapestry Weaving 指導老師：汪鼎芳 老師 專題學生：陳俞佑CHEN,Yu-Yu 、陳宥玲CHEN,Yu-Ling 摘要 根據紡織市場調查的資料顯示，花式紗幾乎普遍只被應用於針織物的表現上，而以質感密實 的梭織或極具設計師創作風格的綴織發揮於花式紗應用的空間則是相當少見。「花式紗」係指 紗線於生產過程中，經由兩種或兩種以上不同線材相互結合並加撚成為一支裝飾性極強的紗 種，這樣的紗種具有多重之視覺和觸覺傳達，因而能提昇花式紗織品之附加價值。由於花式 紗在其色澤搭配、產品立體感、肌理質感明顯優越於一般線材。而其千變萬化又風情萬種的 亮麗外觀則是織物布樣所要展現的主要訴求。本研究之設計主題其創意發想源自春夏間植物 花草的意象，分別以梭織、綴織兩種技法表現 ，在梭織部分，因花式紗本質在視覺與觸覺極 富多樣變化，使得對織物組織選擇上，以較簡單的組織織紋及浮緯較長之圖案作為設計之依 據；而綴織技法以藏經顯緯的特性加以不同特殊花式紗使畫面呈現出多樣且趣味的紋理表 現。針對此研發案，設計出三十件符合主題研究之梭織樣布(31 * 62 CM)及綴織樣布(30 * 30 CM) 六件。花式紗本身具有多重質感，搭配梭織和綴織技法並配合業界做實際生產效用，不但能 展現植物優雅型態，還可藉此續出更多布樣新風貌[1-2]。 關鍵字：花式紗、梭織、綴織、藏經顯緯 Abstract The textile market investigations show that the fancy yarns are nearly only applied to knitgoods and that it is rare that the tatting with dense quality and the knitting with artistic style of designers are applied to the products of fancy yarns. The “fancy yarn” refers to the decorative yarn made by the combination of two or more yarn materials. This kind of yarn is of various visual and tactual effects which highly increase the additional value of the knitgoods of fancy yarns. The fancy yarn is better than other common yarns with respect to color match, third dimension and tactile impression, and its diversified and beautiful appearance is what the knitgoods want to show. The subject of design in this research originates form the plants, flowers and grasses in spring and summer and shows both tatting and knitting skills. For tatting, the design makes use of the simple arranged patterns and the figures with longer raised weft for the knitgoods arrangement because of the diversity of the fancy yarn in vision and tactile impression; and for knitting skill, the design makes use of the obvious weft of Buddhist Te