Sewing Stretch Knit Fabrics American Efird（美国Efird缝纫弹力针织面料）.pdf

TECHNICAL BULLETIN Sewing Stretch Knit Fabrics Most stretch knit garments are seamed with overedge and/or coverstitch seam constructions because these stitches offer the best seam elasticity and coverage of the raw edge of the fabric. A quality problem that is common with stretch knits is excessive “broken stitches” or “stitch cracking” when the seam is stretch excessively. Generally the greater the elasticity of the fabric, i.e., higher Lycra® or Spandex® content, the more likely you are to have broken stitches if you do not understand how to optimize elasticity in the seam. WHAT CAN BE DONE TO MINIMIZE BROKEN STITCHES? Most broken stitches are the result of one of the following: - Not using the correct thread type size - Not having enough stitches per inch - Not sewing with the correct stitch balance or machine thread tensions set incorrectly - Not using the correct seam margin or needle spacing for the application WHAT THREAD TYPE SIZE ARE COMMONLY USED TO SEW STRETCH KNIT FABRICS? The most common threads used to sew stretch knit fabrics are textured polyester or textured nylon ® ® threads like AE’s Wildcat Plus or Best Stretch . Textured threads are ideal for overedge and coverstitch seams because they offer excellent seam coverage and seam elasticity. In cases where performance garments will be subjected to harsh end-use applications and wash cycles, many manufacturers prefer to use Perma Core® threads in the needles and textured threads in the looper