(麻省理工)波传导-水波.pdfVIP

1.138J/2.062J, WAVE PROPAGATION Fall, 2000 MIT Notes by C. C. Mei CHAPTER FOUR. WAVES IN WATER 1 Governing equations for waves on the sea surface In this chapter we shall model the water as an inviscid and incompressible fluid, and consider waves of infinitesimal amplitude so that the linearized approximation suffices. Recall in the first chapter that when compressibility is included the velocity potential defined by u = ∇Φis governed by the wav