(麻省理工)波传导-水波.pdf

1.138J/2.062J, WAVE PROPAGATION Fall, 2000 MIT Notes by C. C. Mei CHAPTER FOUR. WAVES IN WATER 1 Governing equations for waves on the sea surface In this chapter we shall model the water as an inviscid and incompressible fluid, and consider waves of infinitesimal amplitude so that the linearized approximation suffices. Recall in the first chapter that when compressibility is included the velocity potential defined by u = ∇Φis governed by the wave equation: 2 1 ∂ Φ ∇2 Φ= c2 ∂t2 (1.1) where c = qdp/dρis the speed of sound. Consider the ratio 2 1 ∂ Φ 2 2 c2 ∂t2 ω /k ∼ 2 2 ∇ Φ c As will be shown later, the phase speed of the fastest wave is ω/k = √gh where g is the gravitational acceleration and h the sea depth. Now h is at most 4000 m in the ocean, 2 and the sound speed in water is c = 1400 m/sec , so that the ratio above is at most 40000 1 = ¿ 1 14002 49 We therefore approximate (1.1) by ∇2 Φ= 0 (1.2) Let the free surface be z = ζ(x, y, t). Then for a gently sloping free surface the vertical velocity of the fluid on the free surface must b