东华服装材料学2.pptVIP

Chapter 2 Natural protein fibers All protein fibers are composed of amino acids that have been formed into polypeptide chains having larger molecular weights. Fibers in this group have excellent absorbance. Their standard moisture regain is high, and tend to be warmer than most other fibers. Animal life is the source of natural protein fibers. 2.1 Wool Wool was probably the first animal fiber to be made into cloth. The art of spinning wool into yarn developed about 4000 B.C. and encouraged trade among the nations in the region of the Mediterranean Sea. 2.1.1 Molecular structure （1）化学组成 蛋白质角朊；C、H、O、N、S元素组成。 （2）单基 R侧基—多、复杂，约25种氨基酸。 （3）空间形态： 羊毛的稳定结构是α型，α型加外力——β型，β型去外力——α型； 分子间力——羊毛：范德华力、盐式键、氢键、硫键力 2.1.2 Wool structure The wool fiber cross section may be nearly circular, but most wool fibers tend to be slightly elliptical or oval in shape. Wool fibers have a natural crimp, a built-in waviness. The crimp increases the elasticity and elongation properties of the fiber and also aids in yarn manufacturing. Wool is an extremely complex fiber that has evolved from nature over millions of years. The fibers that make wool so useful are genetically built into every fiber on the sheep, and hence depend largely on the breed. No man-made fiber has ever been able to duplicate all of wools special characteristics at one time. 形态结构： ?? 羊毛由鳞片层、皮质层、髓质层组成。 The inner layer of wool fiber is divided into halves - the paracortex and ortocortex. These two cells absorb moisture to different extents hence they expand and contract by different amounts causing bending of the fiber, which results in a crimp pattern along the length of fiber. 2.1.3 Wool properties 1. Chemical properties: Wool protein, keratin, is highly susceptible to damage by alkalies. Solutions of 5 percent sodium hydroxide at room temperature and sodium hypochlorite bleach (full strength) will dissolve the fiber. Wool is considered resistant to action by mild or dilute acids