流体力学第六章-1.pptVIP

总17页 Formulation of the Problem * Chapter 6 Gravity Waves Introduction Perhaps the most basic feature of all physical phenomena. Waves are the means by which information is transmitted between two points in space and time, without movement of the medium across the two points. Energy and phase travel, but motion of the matter is generally small Generation: restoring force (bring back) and inertia (overshoot) Compression wave, elastic wave, or pressure wave, e.g. sound wave, due to compressibility or elasticity of the material medium. Particles move to and fro in the direction of wave propagation. Gravity waves (surface ~, internal ~), due to gravity. Particles move both alone and perpendicular to direction of propagation. 2. The Wave Equation Linear PDE, Hyperbolic type. In the x direction only: A general solution, f and g arbitrary functions f(x-ct) propagates in the positive x direction g(x+ct) propagates in the negative x direction Phase 2π(x-ct)/λ, Amplitude a, Wavelengthλ, Period T Circular frequency ω, wave number k, phase speed c 3. Wave Parameters For three-dimensional waves of sinusoidal shape: K=(k, l, m) is the wavenumber vector, whose magnitude is Clearly, the components of the phase velocity vector c do not obey the Rule of vector addition. 4. Surface Gravity Waves Both a /λ and a / H are much smaller than one. Frequency is assumed larger than Coriolis frequency. Neglect surface tension Small viscosity The viscous effects are confined to boundary layers and do not Significantly affect the wave propagation. The motion is assumed to be generated from rest, say by wind action or by dropping a stone. According to Kelvin’s circulation Theorem, the resulting motion is irrotational, ignoring viscous effects, Coriolis forces, and stratification. -- velocity potential Substitution into the continuity Eq. Gives the Laplace Eq. Boundary conditions at the bottom At the free surfac