女装针织原型的设计.pdf

8 卷 1 期 天 津 工 业 大 学 学 报 Vol.28 No.1 圆园园9 年2 月 韵哉砸晕粤蕴 韵云 栽陨粤晕 陨晕 孕韵蕴再栽耘悦匀晕陨悦 哉晕陨灾耘砸杂陨栽再 February 2009 装针织原型的设计 谢朝 渊南开大学 文学院袁天津 300071冤 摘 要 最大限度地减少针织服装结构设计中因面料弹性而产生的采寸误差 提高立体成型效果 通过与普通原 型的设计比较和对针织原型纸样设计的科学性与适用性的分析. 研究了野女装针织原型冶的设计原理与方 法曰结果得出院衣身针织原型需适量减小胸围尧背宽尧领口等部位的松量设计 同时简化参数公式和省断结 构曰衣袖针织原型前后袖山曲线曲度相同 袖中线位置前移满足前尧后肩的造型需要曰裙子针织原型前后 裙片相同 腰臀部位曲线及省断结构简化. 关键词院针织服装曰纸样设计曰原型 中图分类号 TS941.763.2 文献标识码 A 文章编号 员远苑员原园 源载渊圆园园9 冤园1原园园33原园4 Design of knitting basic blocks of dress XIE Zhao 渊Institute of Literature, Nankai University, Tianji n 300071, China冤 Abstract 院The scientific pattern design and precise size are the key issues for knitting wear. The method of Knitting Blocks is studied in order to reduce the inaccurate caused by knitting structure. The scientific and applicable characteristic of Knitting Blocks is analyzed in view of the elasticity and ductility of knitting fabric. The results show that Knitting Bodice Blocks should be tighter than ordinary Blocks in Bust Line 袁 Shoulder Line 袁 and Neck Line. The curvature of Knitting Sleeve Block忆s front arm hole and back arm hole is the same. Move the Sleeve Middle Line ahead to meet the needs of shoulder shape. The front pattern of Knitting