海岸动力学英文课件CoastalHydrodynamics复习.ppt

§6.1 General Beach Nomenclature nearshore zone offshore zone inshore foreshore backshore coastline longshore bar longshore trough beach face berm crest berms beach scarp cliff Equilibrium beach profile §6.2 Beach Profile 2. Beach profile changes 113/130 During the progress of the experiment in which a constant wave input is maintained, the beach profile will reach a steady state condition, that is, the beach profile in the flume will approach a particular one, which is named the equilibrium beach profile （平衡海滩剖面）. 1. Equilibrium beach profile Typical types of beach profile Experimental study 2. Beach profile changes 115/130 The storm beach profile with bars versus the swell profile with a pronounced berm that occurs under swell waves conditions bar trough sea cliff storm profile swell profile berm With storm waves the sand seaward of the breaker zone moves shoreward, while sand in the surf zone is transported in an offshore direction. This convergence of the sand transport directions must result in an accumulation of sand at the breaker position, forming a bar. With flatter swell waves, the sand is moved landward at all depths, within the surf zone as well as beyond the breaker zone, so that it accumulates on the berm. According to their laboratory investigations, Sunamura and Horikawa proposed the following semi-empirical criterion on whether a beach will erode or accrete. Shoreline configuration §6.3 Coastal Change 2. Coastal change associated with littoral structures 3. Mechanism of coastal change 4. Methods to analyze coastal change 119/130 For a given littoral compartment, suppose Qin denotes the rate of sediment drift into the compartment, and Qout the rate drift out. 1. Shoreline configuration An equilibrium beach is a beach whose curvature in plan view and profile are adjusted in such a way that the waves impinging on the shore provide precisely the energy required to t