海岸动力学英文课件CoastalHydrodynamics41.ppt

Coastal Hydrodynamics Chapter 4 NEARSHORE CURRENTS Stating types of currents Stating concept of radiation stress(辐射应力) Stating phenomena of wave set-up (波浪增水) and wave set-down (波浪减水) Stating characteristics of longshore currents (沿岸流) Ocean currents Chapter 4 §4.1 Outline of Currents 2. Tidal currents 3. Nearshore currents Chapter 4 In the ocean, there exit currents of almost constant direction and speed through the year. Ocean currents are mainly generated by wind and are classified as drift currents and gradient currents, or density currents and compensation currents according to generation mechanism. They are also classified as warm or cold currents depending on whether their temperatures are higher or lower than those of the neighboring ocean region. 1. Ocean currents Chapter 4 Tidal currents are induced by the horizontal movement of the sea water together with tidal motion. The motion of tidal currents has periods which correspond to their tidal constituents. Tidal currents occasionally play an important role in the nearshore region. They are easily influenced by the sea bottom and coastal topography, thus they have strongly localized characteristics. Hence it is rather difficult to establish a clear relationship between tides and tidal currents in general. 2. Tidal currents Chapter 4 The nearshore current consists of the mass transport induced by wave action, the longshore current and rip currents.There are two wave- induced current systems in the nearshore zone. These are: a cell circulation system of rip currents and associated longshore currents, longshore currents produced by an oblique wave approach to the shoreline. 3. Nearshore currents Chapter 4 The slow mass transport, the feeding longshore currents, and the rip currents taken together form a cell circulation system in the nearshore zone. Chapter 4 It is well known that when waves approach a straight coastline at an oblique angle, a longs