海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.2教学幻灯片.pptVIP

Coastal Hydrodynamics Chapter 3 What are statistically representative waves? 11/39 Chapter 3 3/38 Rayleigh distribution curve Chapter 3 3/38 JONSWAP spectrum Chapter 3 Example: a separate wave group moves from the generation area to the coastline. 6/38 R D Chapter 3 If R is the distance from the leading edge of the storm fetch to point A on the coast, then time tob of first observation of arrival of the waves is For a line source of waves, the final arrival time of waves is 7/38 Wave conservation Chapter 3 §3.2 Wave transformations in shallow water 2. Wave shoaling 3. Wave r