海岸动力学英文PPT课件oastal Hydrodynamics_5.2.pptVIP

Chapter 5 §5.4 Longshore Sediment Transport Wave power approach 波能流法 33/48 Chapter 5 Littoral drift is defined as sedimentary material moved in the nearshore zone under the influence of waves and currents. The movement associated with littoral drift is called littoral transport. In order to predict future coastal change, the littoral transport rate must be determined, which means the rate of sedimentary material parallel or perpendicular to the shore in the littoral zone. 34/48 Chapter 5 In the treatment of littoral transport, it is quite common to consider separately sediment movement perpendicular and parallel to shore. Sediment transport perpendicular to the shore (cross-shore or onshore-offshore transport) is a significant factor controlling short-term variations in beach profile, whereas transport parallel to the shore (long-shore transport) is more significant for both long-term and large- scale variations in the beach. 35/48 Chapter 5 In order to estimate the longshore transport rate, the rate at which sediment moves alongshore, from a knowledge of the wave and current parameters that cause the transport, coastal engineers have relied most heavily on empirical correlations between the rate of sand drift and the expressions so-called “longshore component of wave energy flux”. 36/48 Chapter 5 The immersed-weight transport rate and the longshore component of wave energy flux can be related by 37/48 Chapter 5 The above correlation between the sand transport rate and the longshore component of wave energy flux, although apparently successful, is basically empirical, and its formulation involved no real considerations of the mechanics of sand transport. A more fundamental examination of the processes involved is therefore needed. 38/48 Chapter 5 Bagnold developed an energetics model of sediment transport. According to the model, the stress exerted by the wave motion supports and suspends sediment above the bottom. Sup